Pyruvic Acid: Why This Peeling Is Good For Skin With Acne?

Sebastiano Accaputo
December 7, 2021

Pyruvic acid is a peeling used as an exfoliating substance and, thanks to its sebum-regulating action, it can be an excellent treatment for acne.

Pyruvic acid is an important metabolite already present in the human body and participates in the form of pyruvate in important anabolic and catabolic biochemical processes (eg glycolysis, lipolysis, protein synthesis, gluconeogenesis). It was discovered in 1835 by the Swedish chemist Jöns Jacob Berzelius who gave it the name of "pyruvic" because it is obtained from the breakdown of tartaric acid (pyrolysis).

From a chemical point of view, pyruvic acid is a small molecule belonging to the alpha ketoacid family and is also present in fruit and vegetables.

Pyruvic Acid: The Benefits For The Skin

Thanks to its low pH, pyruvic acid has a keratolytic action and is therefore used in dermatology as an exfoliating substance. Due to its small size (just three carbon atoms) it manages to make its way between the most superficial keratinocytes of the epidermis (superficial peeling effect), evening both the brightness and the skin tone. Once in the papillary dermis, pyruvic acid carries out its biological action by creating a mild inflammatory reaction (vasodilation erythema) and stimulating the formation of new collagen fibers.

Due to its lightening effect it is often used in dermocosmetics used for the treatment of chloasma, alone or in combination with other natural acids (eg mandelic acid).

Pyruvic Acid: A Peeling For The Treatment Of Acne

Pyruvic acid is also present in some dermocosmetics used for the treatment of acne (eg creams, masks, gels, lotions, detergents, etc.) as it has a good sebum-regulating and keratolytic action.

Inside the anti-aging creams it has a peeling effect on the epidermis and a stimulating action on the dermis (eg elastic fibers, collagen fibers). It is usually a manageable and well tolerated acid.

Pyruvic acid is used at much higher percentages (eg 40%) in aesthetic medicine, within some professional peels. In the treatment of post-acne outcomes, most chemical peels are performed when the acne has now regressed. Pyruvic acid-based peels are usually well tolerated even with acne still in progress, but should be avoided during the summer season.

After performing a pyruvic acid peeling it is important to use a sunscreen with a high protection factor. In dermocosmetics for home use, pyruvic acid is usually found in much lower percentages. Despite having a mild antimicrobial activity, pyruvic acid is a substance that respects and does not alter the skin microbiome.